Pink Comparison

Posted on July 1, 2011

If you are like me, when you first started out lampworking, you would pull up the vendor websites and start drooling over the great colors they showed- especially the pinks!  Then you would spend a ton of money on a couple different kinds only to receive them and be sooo disappointed.  (Myself, I have an entire drawer full of glass I will never use.) Trust me, you are not alone!  I think everyone who starts loving glass would love to add some really nice pinks to their pallette.  Ones that aren't too fussy, don't boil and scorch and turn black at the first touch of the flame.



So I decided that maybe a color chart of sorts might be helpful..... 

Had I thought a bit further ahead, these would have been in a more pleasing arrangement, but I didn't, so here you go- from left ot right:

Poppy/Watermelon (Vetrofond) 791942  This color is only available occasionally- it is not as orange as it appears in this picture, and the beads turn out a pretty pastel peach instead of a pink.  If only it stayed the original color, but it doesn't- not ever:)

 Desert Pink (CIM) 5111942 This melts nicely, and remains a pale warm shell pink

Pink Light pastel (Effetre) 591260 A very pale pink, you can use this as a base for rubino or CIM cranberry, but it is really too pale to call "Pink".

Gelly's Sty (CIM) 511904- Now this is a nice pink. and well worth the money.   It melts a little bit slow, but does not boil scorch or otherwise is well behaved.  One of the best pinks out there, and the color saturation is pale, but most definitely pink!  Not fussy at all, you can work this glass in a good flame without problems.

Pink Dark Alabaster (Effetre) 591380 My hands down favorit pink. Now, that being said, there are some things you need to know.  It is full (and I mean full) of bubbles- kind of like seeded glass.  And it will scorch if you don't work it high up in the flame.  But it is the most perfect pink without having to take time to layer or encase.


From left to right: (I did a better job on this graduation of color):

Opal Raspberry Reichenbach RL-6219  Another really nice pink, but slightly warmer in tone, these rods (at least for me) are very thin, and can boil easily if you work the glass too much or too hot, but still, a really nice color.

Rubino Effetre 591456  I have an older batch, and you have to be aware that every batch is different.  some are darker, some pale, some start out dark, some are clear and strike.  I have had a couple of different batches, and they all were different in color and quality.  This glass has to be handled with care- work really high in the flame, and turn it down.  It's slow going working with pinks!  I talk below about some ways to use this glass.

EDP (Purple Premium Opaque) Effetre 591254  ?After 4 years I am finally getting somewhat comfortable with this color, but it's not for everyone.  This batch turns a nice dark purple, but I also have one that is more pink.  This baby scorches, devits like crazy and is totally not nice most of the time.  However, if you have lots of patience, it makes beautiful beads and is a wonderful base for rubino.

Pink Dark Premium Effetre 591245  The batch that I have ismorepurple than I'd like, but if you encase this with rubino, you get a beautiful fuschia pink.  This color plays nice- it does not burn or shock and I have never  had it devit.

Pink Opalino Effetre 591532  Why bother for such a pale pink?  It took me twice as long to get this bead made- if you like the color, buy CIM Desert Pink!



I have had the best luck with layering colors for nice rich pinks.  The beads in the front are the simplest- make a disc of Dark Pink Alabaster (maybe two wraps) and then top it off with a wrap of rubino.  Rubino likes to spread, so as you melt it down, the rubino will spread down over the edges of the disc and you will get a nice vibrant pink with little fuss. 


These rounds are three part- a opaque base, a thin layer of rubino and then finally a layer of Lauscha clear.  The bead on the left has a core of white, the one on the right a core of dark pink pastel.  I make a small donut of white. encase with a couple of thin wraps of rubino.  Carefully melt this down and allow the rubino to wrap itself around the core color.  then I use my mashers to smoosh the core into a barrel.  This will thin out the rubnio even more, and produce aprettier pink.  Then I encase in clear and round the bead out.


Another thing to keep in mind is time in the kiln.  since rubino is a strking glass, the  longer the beads are in the kiln, the darker the color you produce.  The beads on the left were made at the beginining o my session (4 hours plus an hour annealing), the beads on the right at the end (maybe 10 minutes plus the 1 hour annealing schedule)


I hope this helps guide you spending your hard earned dollars!  Enjoy your torch time!  Laura

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1 Comment

Sheila   March 17, 2016 at 5:03 am

  Hey there. I am totally amazed at bead making and would someday like to try making some myself, but for now, I leave it to you to make your wonderful creations. Wonderful description/tutorial on making beads. All the best to you.  

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